Build Shaker Cabinet Doors With Table Saw | New to Woodworking?

If you’re new to woodworking, let me show you an easy way to make a shaker cabinet door. Just using a table saw and a standard 10 inch. Blade there are two common methods used today to makea shaker cabinet door, the first method, utilizesa router table and a pair of router bits thatare, specifically designed to make doors. The othermethod utilizes a table saw with a stacked. Dadowhich is a stack of blades that when addedtogether removes large amounts of materialquickly and cleanly leaving a professional lookand fit, but because you’re just getting startedyou, probably don’t have a router table or dadoset and that’s fine, because you can still builda great-looking quality door without them.

It’s important to understand and know the differencebetween, the door style and a door. Rail suitsyou can correctly measure and assemble thedoor cabinet rails, just like handrails on aporch run horizontally, while the styles runvertically when assembled the rails, fit in betweenthe styles, and this is important to know so. Thatyou can cut your styles and rails to the properlength when it comes to the width of the stylesand rails. The standard size is about two and aquarter inches, but depending on your specificoverall cabinet or drawer size anywhere, betweentwo and two and a half inches is acceptable. Toget, a quick estimate of the amount of materialyou need for each door measure the height of thecabinet opening and multiply by two then measurethe width and multiply that by two measuring thisway gives you a little extra material for mistakesand adjustments to get started rip the materialdown.

If you need to to your desired width, withthat done it’s time to start cutting the stylesand rails to the length. The styles are easy: asthey are cut to the exact door height, which inmy case is twenty three and a half inches therails, on the other hand, are not cut to the exactdoor width and require a little bit more math tofigure them out the total door width needs To beseventeen and a half inches, but if you remember ifthe rails, fit in between the styles, so you’ll haveto deduct for those and then add two three-eighthsTenon’s to each rail. Therefore, the math looks likethis the total door width, seventeen and a halfinches two styles and two and a half incheseach, giving us a total of twelve and a half inchesthen. We’Re going to add to that 3/4 of an inch forboth Tenon’s for a total rail length of the anda quarter. Inches and don’t worry if you didn’tfollow that exactly it’ll all make sense, onceI start putting the door together after cuttingthe, Stiles and rails to the proper length.

It’Stime to run a groove in all four pieces, raiseyour saw blade up to 3/8 of an inch and slidethe fence over to align the blade in the centerof the board and don’t worry, it doesn’t have tobe exactly Center, just make it close once set upproperly run. All four pieces through carefullyholding each board tight to the fence and tightto the table once all four pieces are done: graba, smaller, scrap of the same material and run thatthrough as well. So this scrap piece so actuallybe used as a test to get the exact location, ofthe fence so that the groove is in the centerand sized exactly to match the thickness of theplywood panel. The panel material that we’re usingon this project is about a quarter inch thick sowe’ll have to adjust the fence slightly to makeour groove wider, once the adjustments made makea second pass and this time slip the board infor N and run it through again what this doesis centers. The groove creating an equal amountof material on either side with that done, it’stime to check the fit with the plywood itneeds to be snug, but not too tight as youcan see.

We need to go back to the table, saw andmake another micro adjustment to the fence, sothat. The groove is slightly bigger; they get runone side, then flip the board and run it throughagain. This time around, it seems to be a perfectfit not too tight and not too loose. Now that weknow, that the test piece fits it’s time to runall the Stiles and rails through at this pointthe, two styles are done now, it’s time to startmilling the Tenon’s on each end of the rails, toset up for that milling operation. The first thingyou need to do is to add a scrap block of wood, tothe fence about two and a half inches back fromthe blade.

This block can be used as a guide toset the proper distance to cut the 3/8 Tenon’s andto prevent kick back during the milling process. Toget started grab your test piece again and setit next, to the blade slowly lower the blade downuntil, your just below the side wall of the dadothe next step is to make a three-eighths mark downfrom the end, which marks the total length of thetenon with the fence loose Place the rail againstthe block and move the fence and the rail at thesame time in or out to line up the blade, withthe three-eighths mark. It’S a good idea to keepthe blade, slightly inbound of the pencil line, tostart once you’re happy with their settings. Lockthe fence down with the solve running, slide theBraille over tight to the block and then advancethe rail, through the blade using the miter gaugenow that the first pass is complete. Flip, the railover and repeat the same process with the Tenon’sshoulders, now cut nibble away the remaining amountof material, creating the face of the Tennant once complete it’s time to test the fit withthe styles and as expected, it’s a little tootight and that’s fine, remember you can alwaysremove More material, but you can never put itback on so now that we know that the tenonis too tight its back to the table, saw raisethe blade ever so slightly and repeat the samemilling process as before, with a little effortthis time.

The tenon goes in to the groove nicelybut. Another problem arises see the gap here, tofix that it’s back to the table saw to adjust thefence away from the blade to make this tenon justa bit longer. With those adjustments made, you cansee that the tenon is now bottoming out in theend wall, and it’s fitting really well now thatthe test piece works and the adjustments on thesaw or dial then run all four ends of the railsto create their Tenon’s. I do want to make youaware that, because we’re not using a stacked, dadothe single saw blade, can leave some jagged markson the joints. So if you’re standing, your doorsyou may want to clean those up with a chisel ofplain or even just some sandpaper, wrapped arounda block, just make sure you clean those up, beforeyou dial your saw in because this will affectthe way your Tenon’s fit.

The last thing to dobefore assembling is to get the measurement forthe quarter inch panel to do that loosely fit therails to the Stiles and make marks at each tenantlocation then measure between the two lines: andsubtract an eighth of an inch to get the widthof. The panel subtract an eighth of an inch fromthe total rail length, which includes the tenon atthe table, saw cut the plywood down to the correctdimensions. I do strongly recommend dry fittingeverything before adding glue just to make surethat everything looks good once you’re confidentset the door parts between two clamps and glue oneside of the door, making sure to get good, coverageon all surfaces of the tenon and there’s no needto glue the panel. So gluing goes pretty quick nowthat the glue is on assemble one side by pressingthe tenant’s into the grooves, then slide thepanel into place from there glue the remainingtwo, Tenon’s and press the whole assembly togetherbe sure the tighten the clamps evenly and look tomake sure that the door Is also tight to theunderside of the clamp you don’t want. The doorthe write up on the edge, creating a warp ifyou do find a high side lightly.

Tap it downthe very last thing to check before the gluesets up is the squareness of the or to do thatmeasure from one corner to the opposite. Cornerand then do the same thing on the other. Cornersthese numbers should be the same or close if yourdoor is square as long as we did a good job atcutting each individual piece so that they’rethe same size once everything goes together. Idon’T think you’re gon na have any problems. Minehere is about a sixteenth of an inch off andI’m, not gon na worry about it.

Now that everythingis flat and square, let the glue dry, well, beforesanding everything down now, depending on whattype of hardware you’re, going to be using onthe door you’re going to want to do those millingoperations first before any painting or stainingbegins. This door will be receiving european-stylehinges that are inset into the frame by drilling35 millimeter holes into the Stiles to lay outfor. Those hinges mark 4, inches down from thetop and 4 inches up from the bottom, then use ajig to locate the center lines for the correctamount of offset from there set up a 35 millimeterForstner bit in the drill press and drill 2 holesmaking sure the drill to the Proper depth, afterpaint or stain follow the hinge manufacturer’sdirections for proper installation. Well, thereit is one complete shaker-style door. If you haveany questions, leave them in the comment.

Thanks for watching, see everybody next week.


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