How to fit concealed (Euro-style) hinges for overlay & inset cabinet doors [video # 348]

Welcome back I’m Peter Menard and in today’s video I want to talk about these little fellas and concealed hinges. In fact, let’s dive right in call them kitchen cabinet hinges. Call them Cup hinges, call them euro style hinges. We call them concealed hinges, because when the doors closed you don’t see them so, in the best part of 20 years as a camera maker, I fitted thousands of these hinges, possibly even tens of thousands and overwhelmingly there have been these ones you so the Blum 71 Be 35 50 we’ll get into the details of these later on. But basically this is a 35-millimeter hinge.

Cabinet concealed hinges come in two sizes, 26 mil and the much more common 35 mil, and when I talk about sizes and sizings from now on in this video, I’m going to be referring specifically to the 35. Mil hinge like this. One concealed hinges come in two parts: the hinge itself and the hinge mounting plate. You know the hinge itself comprises the hinge body, the hinge boss and hinge arm. The hinge body fits into a hole: 35 millimeters wide and 13 millimeters deep and drilled into the door with its center 22 and a half millimeters from the edge.

The hinge is secured to the door, typically with two screws, driven through the hinge boss, 32 millimeters apart. The hinge mounting plate is positioned at the same height as the hinge and attached to the cabinet or carcass, with two screws again at 32, mil centers, but setback 37, millimeters away from the edge of the cabinet and once fixed the hinge arm. Simply clips onto the mounting plate now on this basic pressed steel or sometimes called cruciform mounting place, the fixing positions are slotted to allow for plus or minus a couple of three millimeters of vertical adjustment, and the hinge arm has to screw adjusters that allow a further Plus or minus two millimeters of in/out and side-to-side adjustment, the combination of these three adjustments on each hinge is usually plenty to allow for wonky walls or cabinetry. That’S been pulled slightly out of shape during the installation and one suggested the door can easily be unclipped for maintenance or access and then refit it later on in exactly the same position. But that’s the basics for the concealed hinge joint after the jingle.

When we get into a little bit more detail now, let me start off by saying there are many many hinge manufacturers, all of whom make many many different types of hinges: let’s throw a handful of names, grass, haefely, Hettich, suka, Tony and, of course, Blum I’ve gone For the blunt hinges, because they’re fairly ubiquitous, that’s the only reason I’m not suggesting that they’re best, just that that particular hinge suits me we’ll get into that a little bit more in a little bit more detail in a second. I know, for example, that if I’m stuck on-site with a problem of some kind, whether that’s a damaged hinge plate or a lost hinge plate or whatever, certainly here in London, I can go into pretty much any hardware store, corner shop, hardware store and get some Blum Hinge mounting plates it’s a huge business concealed hinges and hinge systems. Blum themselves produce a 738 page online, catalog, 125 pages of which are dedicated to concealed hinges and hinge systems. That’S an awful lot of hinges and an awful lot of information to have to sift through when old you probably want to do is get a door on a cabinet or a door on a wardrobe. So I thought I just made this video quickly just to take you through the hinges that I use, because most of us to be honest, are going to do one of two applications for these hinges.

You’Re gon na have an overlay door so like a kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe door, so where the door goes fully over, the cabinet itself and you’ve got an inset door where the dual sits within the cabinet or within a frame, and these supper hinges are really Really good for those sort of applications they are fairly ubiquitous, which is why I’ve standardized on them and I’ve standardized on this one, in particular the bloomers 71b 3550. Simply because it is, it covers the vast majority of what I want out of a hinge. It is a hundred and ten degree opening so a little bit beyond the 90. To give you a little bit more access, it’s an overlay hinge, which is what most of my doors are. So it covers the whole of the carcass by the hinge.

It is a clip-on hinge which is really useful. It means that then, that you can build the cabinets in the workshop pre, fit the doors and adjust them to fit nicely, then just unclip them and then just clip them on on site and then you’ve just got to tweak them a little bit depending on. What’S happened during the accident actual installation, so it’s a very convenient for the clients as well to have doors that can be clipped off, whether that’s for cleaning or access or maintenance or whatever else. And finally, it’s got a built-in soft-close mechanism, which is really fantastic. None of these ugly sort of soft-close Pistons attached to your hinge and better still that soft-close can be switched off.

There’S a tiny little switch in one corner, just flick that switch close the door open it again and now it’s back to a regular, sprung hinge. Why would anybody want to switch off soft-close? Well, sometimes, if you got a fairly large wardrobe door, for example, that door will act as a bit of a sail catches the air as it closes, so you don’t necessarily want all four hinges. For example, on the my recent wardrobe build, hasn’t the soft-close build that switched on, because you know it could take a long time for that door. To close, everybody loves soft clothes, provided it does actually close.

The beauty of this kind of hinge for me is that I don’t have the time-space energy or, frankly, money to stock a wide range of different hinges, and this one does the vast majority of what I want. Occasionally I do use an inset door where the door sits when within the carcass or within the frame, and then I use the Blum 71b 3750, which is the inset version of that hinge. You saw me fitting the basic hinge to the overlay door earlier on using an insert is slightly different, and I’m going to take you through that. Now, okay, dope you’ve got our inset door laid out on the bench. We’Ve got the hinge positions and marked on it on tape, because it’s a painted door we’ve transferred those across again on tape into the veneered carcass of a cabinet.

So we know where the hinges and the hinge plates are going to be within the door in the frame when it comes to measuring and marking out where the actual holes need to be drilled. Well, there’s loads of ways of doing this. You can do it manually. Twenty-Two and a half mil and thirty seven mil it’s hardly rocket. Science make sure the screw holes are 32.

Mil apart below, are a whole host of other ways of doing this bloom will sell you a thing called an eco drill. I’Ll set you back about 180 hundred ninety quid, but it does the whole thing in one hit, just with a with a drill which is pretty good. I just use, you probably saw earlier a drill press dedicated pretty much just a drilling hinges. I’Ve got the fence marked up and for where it needs to be whether for the right positions, I’ve actually bought but haven’t used. Yet this little Craig kit, I wanted to give that a try, not very expensive, actually and so we’ll give that a whirl that’ll be out in in a future video, perhaps before too long, but if you’ve only got a couple to do and one of the things I would highly recommend doing is getting this.

This is a made by grass. I’Ve mentioned this before when you may have seen it in previous videos, because I use it as a simple saddle square quite a lot and it’s a very simple hinge and hinge plate. Drilling guide it just sort of sets over the pencil mark and gives you a location where you can Boyd your hole and then and then draw from there on that’s for drilling the holes again. If you’ve only got a couple to do, they’re easy enough to do. Freehand I’ve done loads of these freehand.

There was just a simple 35 mil hinge, boring bit, not an expensive one. I know some guys like to have really expensive forcing bits to do this. This is just a real basic one off Amazon or Ebay. There are links down in the video description to all this stuff by the way, and that’s what we’re going to do now and the only other thing that I like to have is for the fixing screws. For the hinges I like to have the little a bit like this one, the worst sort of thing, where you’ve got a little captive, sprung collar to keep the drill bit centered within the hole that works really well, so that cheap little hinge.

Jig I’ve marked these center positions on the doors with an awl and I’m gon na drill. Those out now, with my 35 mil hinge bit I’ve drilled loads of these three hands before, but I haven’t actually done it with this particular bit. So I’m going to take it slow, steady and I’ll keep checking carefully because we’re going 13 mil deep into a door. That’S only 18 mil thick I’ll. Keep checking it periodically, as I drill through with the hinge itself, just to make sure well we’re going in deep enough, but no deeper.

It’S very easy to go a little bit too deep and that center point just sort of pimples through the other side that that definitely ruins your day. Now. Moving on to the carcass we’ve got a measure and mark for the hinge plate positions and, unfortunately, a little cheap and cheerful hinge. Drilling template, whilst it’s very good for overload doors, doesn’t work, unfortunately, for the hinge templates on inset doors, because, obviously you got or allow for the thickness of the door as well and by the time you do that a little sort of rebate lifts the back edge Of the of the little template off the deck, sadly, so we can’t use these now. Normally, I would just sort of measure those out carefully 37 plus the 18 mil or whatever of the door thickness, but fortunately my friend Steve Turin, the guy behind in the block scribe and the many various scribing aids video out on that very soon has come up With this, this is a hinge plate, template for inset doors for 18 and 22, mil thick doors with those positions marked as well.

So I’ll use that to mark those positions again just with an awl just a little pilot hole and then we can screw the hinge plates on now. One other thing I do like to change when I’m using inset doors is instead of just using the straight forward. Pressed steel cruciform template with a slotted fixing columns. I prefer to use one of these ones with a camera gesture in it. It’S just because you’re making slightly more fine adjustments to get that inset door, fit it nicely within the frame or within the carcass.

It’S easier. Just to turn a screw just to crank it up or down, it seems a little bit. They are a little bit more expensive, but not a great deal and, like all the other hinge templates, they’ve got an arrow on the front showing you which way they need to be fitted. There’S not a lot of wiggle room with these, so you do need to be a little bit more precise with your fittings, but other than that they work extremely well. So, where the hinges fitted onto the hinge place or that’s left now, is to use the adjustment in the hinges just to settle that door nicely within the frame.

So there we are that’s how I go about fitting. My concealed hinges for both overlay and inset applications. Now fairly, obviously, I’m using unsprung hinges here, because I’m typically using insert inset injures cranked hinges with a touch latch of some kind. If you’re, not if you’re using sprung, hinges, there’s nothing to stop that nothing for the door to bear against. So you will need to put a little doorstop on the inside of here, just a slim, six mil little block of wood of some kind of the same material as the inside of the carcass just for that door to bear against otherwise it’ll just keep on going In but that’s it really by all means, use whatever hinges.

You, like you know, there’s lots to choose from feel free to troll through the 738 pages of the bolon catalog, to find the 125 pages that relate to hinges in particular and use any of those that these two hinges: cranked a nun cranked and in sprung an Unsprung variations are the main ones that I use and that I’ve used over the last 20 years or so, and they work really well lifetime warranty on bloom hinges, so if there’s any kind of problem, they will replace them. They just work really well for me, but, as I say, there’s lots to choose from and feel free to make your own choices before we go. I want to give a huge shout out and say thank you very much to all of my patreon supporters without their support without their contributions. I probably wouldn’t still be going to be perfectly honest, because the contributions that I received through the patreon process really do help me to get the lights on here and help me to keep making the videos that I make at this sort of level. With this degree of regularity and my patreon supporters also get access to some exclusive content, either behind-the-scenes or exclusively shot videos just for them, or indeed sometimes it’s just a weekly workshop with vlog kind of things just chatting about what’s been going on in the workshop during The week, if that sounds like your kind of thing, then link down in the video description below to support me on patreon patreon comm forward, slash 10-minute workshop, we’ll get you straight.

There they’re also links in the video description to all of the bits and pieces that I’ve used in this video and two other other handy little bits and pieces that you might find useful in and around the workshop, but that’s it for this week. Thank you. So much for watching I’ll see the next one.


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