Overlay vs Inset Hinges

[, Music, ] Christon in a way a tie-in or a follow-on from Peter Millard’s. Recent video, where he’s talked about the same hinge that we use and come back to basics about how to use it and how to fit it. So I thought, if you’ve seen that or if you haven’t seen that you might be quite interested in how we use those hinges, I think particularly because we use the the inset variation in a slightly non-standard way. Now I’ve put both of them on a door here. Just to help you visualize what they look like, you would never use both on the same door, but it shows you quite clearly the difference.

So that is your typical straight-arm overlay hinge, which, when mounted on what’s called a zero height mounting plate at standard mounting plate, will make the door overlap the carcass, by typically about sixteen millimeters and there’s adjustments either way. So that’s what’s been used here. The inset hinge. It’S fitted in much the same way. That’S the insert hinge there.

So the draw that the door drilling is just the same, but because of the crank, you can also call it a cranked hinge or a fully fully overlapping offered fully so fully inset hinge, because you can’t get a half overlap as well that one places the door Sort of set within the inner face of the carcass side, and that’s the type of hinge that we’ve used on all these doors here, because it throws the door inwards, which makes it then easier to fill the cover straight because you reveal the edge of the carcass. Now the thing that we do – that’s, maybe a little non-standard – I mean I’m sure plenty of people do it, but it’s not necessarily the obvious use of the hinge is that the hinge is still placing the door forward of the carcass I’m going to spin this around. So I can show you better yes, so the hinge is still fitted at the standard. That’S the 37 millimeter setback. In this case, we’ve used euro screws in the five millimeter holes so with it not being set further into the car, because the door is still going to in its closing position, have its back edge just flush to the front of the unit which that means, of Course, when you put your cover strips on those cover, strips can fall flush.

Now. This is a method that we’ve through trial and error, settled on mainly with our alcove cabinets. So the construction of the units here is pretty much the same as alcove cabinets. In terms of the gaps to the wall and the sums of the cover strip arrangement, where you’ve got your exposed side panel, so what you have is you’ve got the side panel of the unit itself, which the door is hinged off. You see the hinges there.

We then put a spacer, also 18 millimeters and finished pre painted cover panel. We design around the inset hinge, throwing the door four millimeters in from the inner face. We then assume the two millimeter overlap with the cover strip, so the chemistry ends up physics, flush to this side: overlaps, two millimeters, and then you have a two millimeter gap. Now, there’s some tweaking of door door gaps to be done. That gives a nice solid.

Look at those edges there, which makes it look that little bit more traditional and a little bit more high quality than simple overlay doors with no side panels, or perhaps just an 18 millimeter side panel. It also makes the scribes to the wall quite easy, because you can just fit the scribe to the exposed edge of carcass and we don’t necessarily always put this extra support strip. All that we have done in this case now part of the driver behind deciding to do things. That way was when we first were making cabinets. We were painting everything, including the internals and solids, to get feedback from a lot of customers that they really weren’t too bothered if the internals were painted.

So we standardized our pricing as being unpainted with the option of people upgrading to paint it on the inside. We always pretty much always offer painted on the outside, but what the insert hinge method means is that you can fully conceal the carcass, because in some cases, when you’re using overlay hinges, sometimes that edge just becomes a bit too visible. There’S different ways of concealing it and we do tend these days to use what I call overlay scribes were scribes that will fit flush to the door rather than the slightly easier method of them being set back, but that would definitely reveal a brown line. So if we mix the methods a little bit here, we mainly just didn’t use the inset hinges, because it was friendly, easier to run all the doors side by side without an another spacer strip here which you would need if you were using the insert hinges. So that’s our method, just dropping this bit in after watching that video back.

What I didn’t say is that one of the big reasons we use this method is that we moved away from trimming doors to fit within a frame. So our alcove unit used to be traditionally made we’d make a rigid joint, see it’s a face frame and the doors would be fitted within that prior to painting. What we do now is we make the doors to a precise size and as square as possible, very square these days, because we get them CNC manufactured, we fit them and just to give us a little bit of play in case something’s, not quite right. The the face frame – it’s not a true face frame, so we have. We have these cover strips, which we fit after the door.

There is that traditionalist, possibly the things I suppose it’s cheating a little bit or it’s not proper, joining me, because a lot of these strips they’re fitted with very modern techniques using gap fitting a DC of also using dominoes and so they’re not strictly joined to each Other where they meet in the same way that you would traditionally join, but then I don’t know how you could get this effect by doing that, be very difficult to have it like one piece frame. I think the important thing is just to make, however, you think so just to do it well, it’s make it solid. So this is this piece that just sticks down from there and has been fitted at the end. It’S very solid. We strengthened it was some support blocks there, but it is dominoed into the lift there and there’s really no movements on there.

The methods allows us to get that particularly high level of finish on the doors as well, because because we’re not trimming doors into the frame, they can be pre finished. With these very smoothly, rounded Eris’s that we do and a very fine sprayed finish, which would be well a lot more work to achieve if you were hitting a frame trimming doors to it and then having to paint after we do have a third type of hinge, Which were using on this job, which is the the post hinge as I know it, I think it has another name, and this one. This is probably what about the third most used hinge that we we use. We use a lot of the other two types, but every now and then there’s a situation like this, where obviously got a corner unit and that hinge needs to mount onto a panel which is in line with the door in the closed position. So when it’s closed, it’s it’s like that and then that Springs out and around, as you can see when it opens still the Blum range, still integrated, soft, close or blue motion as they call it.

What’S the job like this is me and I finished I do like to go around and tweak all the hinges, get the adjustment just right, so examples of what I’d normally want to do. Okay over here, we’ve got the door projecting a little bit from the the frame, whether the cover strip, really where my preference is to tweak that back to flush. Now, if you are using some rubber buffers, this is how you bring it back by the way that way, if you’re using rubber buffers, they would send the closing side, two or three millimeters off the frame, because they would have that thickness and to pay everything. Just right, you’d really want the hinge side to have that sort of a gap there as well. That’S pretty much a standard, but my preference is to bring this in quite close, so that when it closes the whole door is laying flat to the carcass.

Because then, it sits flush with the scribe. Strips another adjustment to make is making sure that the doors are in line. So you look at this one that gaps pretty much parallel to the top good enough that one you can see the left door is up and there’s ever so slight wood taper the gap getting bigger to the left. So a couple things I would try there it made it may need to come down a little bit, which would be a case of loosening these screws in the slotted hole, taking them all off and just tapping it down a little bit re tightening. But I may also want to adjust the twist on the door, because if I can just twist it a bit like that, then these corners will meet more where they, where they need to be cause.

If I do that, this gap will get tighter than it should be, so I wouldn’t want to kick this hinge out. I’D want to kick this hinge back that way, you have to think very three dimensionally, because everything has a knock-on effect. You’Ve got to in think about the the other gap that you’re working with so I’ll just turn this one clockwise, that’s going to push that back and have the result of bringing that down a little bit needs a bit more I’d need two hands Ruby, but you Get the idea, the other thing that I’m watching for is because, because I don’t have the buffers, it’s just a choice that we made to have them sit flush and not stop on buffers. It sounds better when they close, if top and bottom are both touching. At the same time – and I said this one – that’s just showing me that that’s maybe half a mil a mil off the carcass when that has that has stopped tight against it.

So I’d want to go back to my front to back adjustment and just tweak that so it’s going to pull it in Emma so so anymore, see. That’S close. It very nicely maybe needs a touch more, and it might be that I actually just feed sir cuz I’ll get to limit of the adjustment. I might need to bring that one just a little bit out, so they both touched right at the same time. So you see I’m quite particular about this, but I think it all adds to the feel of the finished furniture and I’m sure that you really just to demonstrate how the hinges are just and what they allow you to do really the same process with this.

This is the inset hinge, but it’s all the same, so you’ll get your front and back moving your door off the carcass or closer to it. I’Ve got ya side to side really so moving it. This way we should be changing your gaps, any gaps here and there then you’ve got your up them down now. This is the Euro type screw the same principle, you’d loosen them right off and you can just nudge it up and down and retighten, and then a combination or any combination of these with the other ones, on the door to tweet your rotation and your your 3d Movement, so you get the hang of it as you as you work with it. The post hinges a little bit trickier, but it does work on the same process at the same same methods that sound, because the hinge arm is mounted in a different orientation to the door.

The way things move will be different, but you get the hang of it. So they can’t catch you around. The post hinge is that the setback from the torque usage from here to the drilling position is 21 millimeters, not the standard 37 millimeters. Well, though, that’s added to your knowledge of hinges, or if you knew it already, I suppose it’s always interesting to see hinges used in a different application. So if it’s giving you any ideas, then do give me feedback do subscribe if you haven’t already, and if my content is helping you at your business, they do consider buying me a coffee.



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